So you’re thinking of walking the Pennine Way, eh? Well good for you. It’s certainly an experience and as long as you don’t end up up to your waist in bog (and is there anyone who has walked the whole thing, who doesn’t end up in bog at at least one point?), you’ll probably have a good time.
At 267 miles long it is, however, quite an undertaking to do, especially all in one go, and planning a trip can be hard work so here’s some help and advice.
In this Guide
- What is the walk like?
- The route
- Planning an itinerary
- Finding and booking accommodation
- Getting to/from the Pennine Way
- Guide books and maps
- Know how to use a map and compass
- And finally, and any questions
You may know this already as, after all, the Pennine Way has quite a reputation, but we’ll mention it anyway. The simple fact is that the Pennine Way can be a difficult walk.
It passes through a rather remote and quiet part of the country. There’s lots of hills, plenty of wild moorland, some long distances and the weather can sometimes be awful. And as for the mud and bog… True, a lot of the worse sections are now paved, however it’s one where it’s best to be well equipped, especially in the waterproof department.
That said, it is enjoyable and there’s no doubt that the sense of achievement when you do it is enormous, however it is probably the toughest and most difficult National Trail that England has to offer. If you’re an absolute walking novice, you may wish to try walking a different route first for practise. But then again, you might just want to leap in the deep-end. Just be warned – a walk in the park this is not.
You can read my own experiences on the Pennine Way. Not put off by that? Excellent. You’re half way there then!
You can see the route of the Pennine Way using the map above. Using the controls you can scroll around, zoom in and explore the route. Note that this map is a guide only, and should not be used for navigation. The map includes the Bowes Loop, Cheviot option and other varioations.
First, let’s look at when to walk. From my experience, the Pennine Way is best walked May to September. You can walk it earlier or later, however the weather conditions may not make it a fun experience – even in the summer conditions can be bad underfoot. Walking in late March or early April also runs the risk of snow, especially at the north of the route. Walking during the summer months will give you a more enjoyable walk.
You’ll need around three weeks to walk the whole thing. It’s not easy to offer set itineraries, as there are several sections which have lots of accommodation options. As such, I have listed a number of “sections” below – some long and some short. The longer ones are day walks, whilst the shorter sections can be either combined in various ways.
Each of the locations listed below has accommodation and a pub unless otherwise noted. Many stops are listed as having limited accommodation however there may be B&Bs/pubs in nearby villages which will be able to pick you up and return you to your walk if you ask them nicely.
Locations with a railway station are marked with a *.
|3||Standedge||Hebden Bridge *||15||24|||
|4||Hebden Bridge *||Ponden||10¾||17¼|||
|5||Ponden||Thornton in Craven||11½||18½|||
|6||Thornton in Craven||Gargrave *||4½||7¼|
|8||Malham||Horton in Ribblesdale *||14¼||23|
|9||Horton in Ribblesdale *||Hawes||13¾||22½|
|11||Keld||Tan Hill Inn||4||6½|||
|12||Tan Hill Inn||Middleton in Teesedale||16½||26½|||
|13||Middleton in Teesdale||Dufton||19||30½|||
|21||Byrness||Kirk Yetholm (via the Cheviot)||27½||44¼|
|21||Byrness||Kirk Yetholm (avoiding the Cheviot)||25||40¼|
- Very limited facilities at Crowden. For more details, see our Accommodation and Services at Crowden section
- Hebden Bridge is off-trail, but can be accessed by following the canal, or alternatively by walking the Hebden Bridge Loop.
- Limited accommodation close to the trail at Ponden, available at Ponden House, Ponden Hall and The Old Silent Inn. Alternative accommodation can be found two miles away in the village of Haworth.
- No pub or shop at Thornton-in-Craven. Facilities can be found in nearby Earby.
- Keld is also a principle stopover on the Coast to Coast and because of this accommodation in the village can often be very short supply. However Thwaite also has some B&Bs and a hotel and is still on the Pennine Way. Alternatively you may wish to push on to the Tan Hill Inn.
- For a totally amazing and one off experience, stay in the most remote pub in Britain. It’s amazing. Just make sure you book in advance.
- This can be also be broken up by walking the Bowes Loop option.
- Penrith station is 16 miles from Dufton and accessible by taxi.
- Very limited accommodation at Knarsdale and no shop.
- Although a short section, this goes along Hadrian’s Wall and it is well worth spending a day on this section and taking in the museums and sights.
- Limited accommodation, no pub and no shop. YHA Byrness has a small shop.
Breaking the walk up for several trips
If you want to do it all in one go you’re going to need about three weeks (and don’t forget to include rest days in your planning!) however if you’re not able to dedicate that amount of time it is possible to split it up in to several sections.
Public transport connections are better in the southern section of the route meaning you can chunk things up more easily, and the following are some suggestions where good public transport is available – more information on public transport is detailed below.
- Edale to Hebden Bridge – 42 miles
- Hebden Bridge to Gargrave – 26½ miles
- Gargrave to Horton-in-Ribblesdale – 20¼miles
- Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Dufton – 70¾miles
- Dufton to Kirk Yetholm – 97¼miles
There are two places on the Pennine Way that pose difficulties for Pennine Way walkers. Unfortunately one is on the end of the first day, at Crowden.
Alternative accommodation can be found in nearby Glossop, and the towns and villages nearby. Glossop is a three and a half mile walk, which is not ideal at the end of your first day of walking, although some B&Bs may pick you up if you ask very nicely.
Alternatively, your best bet is to use a local taxi service to get there, however there are some highly limited public transport services. There is a National Express coach which calls at Crowden at 18:01 daily. This coach stops at the Gun Inn at Hollingworth, where you can connect with local bus services to Glossop or nearby towns and villages. The journey to Glossop takes approximately 50 minutes. In the morning the return coach is at 09:40 from the Gun Inn, arriving at Crowden at 09:50. Crowden is also served by South Pennine Community Transport‘s 351 service which runs to Glossop. However it only runs on Fridays and not at times liable to be useful to most walkers. More information can be found at Traveline North West. But like I say, consider a taxi.
After passing the Tan Hill Inn, there are two options for the Pennine Way. One is to keep on the main route, but the other is to follow the Bowes Loop. After several rural sections with few facilities, many will welcome the opportunity to village of Bowes which has accommodation, pub and a small shop.
|The Bowes Loop|
|12a||Tan Hill Inn||Bowes||8½|
|12b||Bowes||Middleton in Teesdale||12||19½|
The final section of the Pennine Way is the most difficult to sort accommodation for. The final 25 mile (bit more if you go to the Cheviot) stretch goes past no B&Bs and certainly no pubs.
However the Pennine Way walker does have a number of options:
- stay at Cocklawfoot Farm – if the thought of spending the night in a remote farm appeals, and if you ask me, it should, then you can stop off at Cocklawfoot Farm for B&B and your evening meal. The farm is a two mile walk north from Windy Gyle, but they offer lifts back in the morning!
- stay at Mounthooley bunkhouse – the turn off for this bunkhouse is a short way after the Cheviot and a couple of miles off route. If you’re prepared for a long first day and a shorter second day, Mounthooley is a possible option. Note that like Cocklawfoot Farm, Mounthooley is remote and there are no nearby pubs or shops.
- stay two nights at Kirk Yetholm – most people seem to do this, partly because the local B&Bs are very good at promoting this service. Some B&Bs will pick you up at an arranged location, or you can use the local taxi service based on Kirk Yetholm. Either way, they’ll drive you to the village and you can pop to the lovely Border Inn. The next day they’ll drive you back and you can continue on to Kirk Yetholm. Note that the pick up points will be a couple of miles off route.
- stay two nights at Byrness – naturally this works in the same way as staying in a Kirk Yetholm B&B. but you stay two nights at the Byrness Hotel or Byrness Hotel (whose website has been offline recently, but does appear to still be trading) and YHA Byrness instead. Again, the pick up points will be a couple of miles off route.
- stop at a bothy – the National Park operates two shelters. The first is at Yearning Saddle, about eight miles from Byrness. The second is Auchope, about seven miles from Kirk Yetholm. Both are basic shelters so if you plan to stay overnight you’ll need food and a sleeping bag. Both are also marked on the Ordnance Survey maps and are on the trail.
- do it all in one day – if you’re a glutton for punishment, this is an option. However you’ll need to be very fit to manage it. Still, if you’ve walked the whole trail in one go, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to do it!
Note: on some web pages you’ll find reference to two other, now defunct options. The fantastic Barrowburn Farm (south of near Windy Gyle) closed in September 2016 when the owners left for pastures new. It’s unknown whether anyone else will take on their accommodation facilities and attached tea room. Cocklaw Farm is an ideal replacement.
Some very old pages mention of Uswayford Farm which was a popular stop-over point and slightly closer to the Pennine Way than Barrowburn. However the B&B closed in 2010 and rhere is no longer any accommodation nor services at Uswayford Farm.
There was a time when you could do the entire Pennine Way spending pretty much every night under the roof of the YHA, however hostel closures and sell-offs means that’s no longer possible. Stepping into the gap have been a number of independent bunk barns, many associated with local pubs which means most – but not all – of the trail is still covered.
It’s probably wise to try and book each hostel a few days in advance – or at least book it on the morning you intend to arrive there. Don’t forget that YHA hostels can book beds for you anywhere in the YHA network.
Most hostels and bunk barns are very often (but not always) well spaced for a days walking and an itinerary is listed below. Note some are self-catering only, however bedding is always provided.
All distances shown below are approximate and are the distance travelled along the Pennine Way. Please note that this is not an exhaustive list of hostels on the Pennine Way – a more detailed list is in our hostel section below.
|The Hostel Based Itinerary|
(YHA Edale 1 mile away)
No hostel. See our Crowden section
|2||Crowdon||Mankinholes, near Stoodley Pike |
(YHA Mankinholes 1¼ mile away)
(YHA Haworth 2½ miles away)
|4||Ponden||Thornton in Craven |
(Earby Hostel 1½ miles away)
|5||Thornton in Craven||Malham |
|6||Malham||Horton in Ribblesdale |
(Golden Lion Bunkroom)
|7||Horton in Ribblesdale||Hawes |
|8||Hawes||Tan Hill Inn |
(Tan Hill Inn)
|9||Tan Hill Inn||Forest in Teesdale |
(YHA Langdon Beck 1 mile away)
|10||Forest in Teesdale||Dufton |
(Greenhead Independent Hostel)
|13||Greenhead||Twice Brewed |
(YHA Hadrian’s Wall)
|14||Twice Brewed||Bellingham |
|16||Byrness||Kirk Yetholm |
(SYHA Kirk Yetholm)
- To break up in to two days, stop overnight in a B&B near Standedge.
- Note: the future of Earby hostel is currently uncertain. For many years it has been operated by the YHA, however they are giving up their lease in January 2017. There is hope that the hostel will continue to operate, but at time of writing (October 2016) this is not certain.
- Alternatively, there are two bunkhouses a mile further up the Pennine Way at the Hadraw; the Hardraw Old School Bunkhouse, and at the Green Dragon Inn
- Alternatively Keld Bunkhouse is available four miles earlier, however it only has only ten beds and is liable to be full of people walking the Coast to Coast. The Tan Hill Inn does have more room and is a more reliable option for the Pennine Way walker. Advance booking of either is highly advisable.
- For more sensible walking distances, break at the town of Middleton in Teesdale and stay in a B&B.
- Note: there will be no hostel accommodation now until 2017 when the brand new YHA Hadrian’s Wall hostel will open. This replaces YHA Once Brewed which closed in September 2015. During 2016 the nearest hostel accommodation is at Greenhead.
- Small YHA affiliated bunkhouse. Booking highly recommended.
- A YHA affiliate, also known as Forest View Walkers Inn
- You may see references to the closure of Kirk Yetholm hostel. It did close in 2011 however re-opened in August 2012. It’s worth staying in the village at the end, especially as the Border Hotel does excellent food and is a great place to celebrate your achievement.
If you’re planning on doing the Pennine Way all in one go you’ll probably want to factor in a rest day or two. The main recommendations are:
- Hebden Bridge – a bit early on but this Yorkshire market town has a seriously quirky reputation due to an influx of writers, painters and new age activists in the 1970s and 1980s. There’s plenty to explore and enjoy, as well as having regular rail services to Manchester and Leeds
- Malham – a popular place for walkers Malham is a lovely place and has a range of walking routes to enjoy.
- Horton-in-Ribblesdale – with the three peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent Horton is a mecca for walkers. The Pennine Way goes over Pen-y-ghent however a rest day can easily be spent exploring the other two peaks or spending some time on the stunning Settle to Carlisle railway line which passes through the village.
- Hawes – this small market town has the Dales Countryside Museum, waterfalls, walking routes and the Wensleydale Creamery.
- Bowes – on the Bowes Loop you can spend the day visiting Bowes Castle and other nearby attractions.
- Greenhead/Twice Brewed – the Pennine Way runs along part of Hadrian’s Wall and highly recommended is to do the short distance between Greenhead and the Twice Brewed Inn in one day and spend the rest exploring the Roman ruins, museums and visitor centres.
The Pennine Way is well served by accommodation providers of all kinds and you should have no trouble in finding somewhere if booking in advance.
There are two main accommodation guides, one published on the official Pennine Way website and the other published by the The Pennine Way Association. The latter only includes accommodation providers who are a member of the Association and so is smaller.
Due to the limited amount of accommodation in some areas it’s advisable to book, however if you don’t want to spend three weeks with a rigid itinerary many people report having few problems just turning up and finding a bed. The Pennine Way is also well served with campsites and camping barns if you prefer to do things that way.
The Pennine Way is amazingly well served by hostels and bunkhouses – far more so than most walking routes. Indeed, if you’re prepared for a couple of long days, you can do almost all the trail staying in hostels and bunkhouses using our Hostel Itinerary section above. This uses most of the hostels listed below:
- SYHA Mankinholes, near Stoodley Pike – 1¼ miles off route
- Hebden Bridge Hostel, Hebden Bridge – independent hostel near the centre of Hebden Bridge
- YHA Haworth, Haworth – 2½ miles from Ponden
- Earby Hostel – 1½ miles from Thornton-in-Craven. Note: the future of Earby hostel is currently uncertain. For many years it has been operated by the YHA, however they are giving up their lease in January 2017. There is hope that the hostel will continue to operate, but at time of writing (October 2016) this is not certain.
- Airton Barn, Airton – small Quaker run bunkhouse, few miles before Malham
- YHA Malham, Malham
- Golden Lion Bunkroom, Horton-in-Ribblesdale – bunk rooms at one of the village pubs
- YHA Hawes, Hawes
- Hardraw Old School Bunkhouse, Haedraw – bunk house in an old school, a mile on from Hawes.
- Green Dragon Inn, Hardraw – bunk house accommodation a short way further on from Hawes
- Keld Bunkhouse, Keld – small bunk house in Keld
- Tan Hill Inn, Tan Hill – bunk house accommodation in this iconic pub
- YHA Langdon Beck, Forest-in-Teesdale – 1 mile away off route
- YHA Dufton, Dufton
- YHA Alston, Alston
- Greenhead Independent Hostel, Greenhead
- YHA Hadrian’s Wall, near Twice Brewed Inn. Note: opening 2017, this is replacing the now closed YHA Once Brewed.
- YHA Bellingham, Bellingham
- YHA Byrness, Byrness – YHA affiliate also known as Forest View Walkers Inn
- Kirk Yetholm Friends of Nature House, Kirk Yetholm – SYHA affiliated hostel
You may see references to the closure of Kirk Yetholm hostel. It did close in 2011 however re-opened in August 2012. It’s worth staying in the village at the end, especially as the Border Hotel does excellent food and is a great place to celebrate your achievement.
You may still see references to YHA hostels in Crowden, Keld and Blackton. Crowden is now run by Rotherham Council and only available for group bookings. Keld is now a hotel and Blackton is only available for group hire. Maps may also show other bunkhouses however many have closed, or which are available for only group hire.
Just walking the Pennine Way not hardcore enough for you? Well why not do it in style and camp?! The Pennine Way is pretty served by campsites, and a number of farms and pubs also offer camping. A full, up to date list of facilities can be found on the Pennine Way website accommodation guide.
The remote countryside for much of the route may appeal to some as perfect for wild camping. However it should be said that conditions on the Pennine Way can often be less than hospitable with plenty of bog and mud to be found, especially in wet weather which means finding a suitable campsite may be difficult. Running water can also be hard to find (unless it’s raining!) Under English law you are not legally allowed to wild camp without permission of the landowner.
Given the fact that this is a walk between Derbyshire and the Scottish Borders chances are that you’re not going to arrive in Edale or Kirk Yetholm by car unless you have some very tolerant friends or family. You’ll want to get there by public transport instead.
Useful services are available at or near the following locations:
- Edale – on the lovely Hope Valley line roughly half way between Sheffield and and Manchester. Trains usually run every two hours, with an hourly service on Saturdays.
- Hebden Bridge – several services an hour mostly running between Leeds and Manchester, plus hourly services to Blackpool and York.
- Gargrave – a short journey from Leeds, trains also run to Carlisle and Morcombe. Services are sporadic.
- Horton-in-Ribblesdale – on the Settle to Carlisle line, trains run through to Carlisle or Leeds roughly every two hours or so.
- Dufton – there’s no station at Dufton however Appleby on the Settle to Carlisle line is a few miles away. More useful however is 13 miles away at Penrith which sits on the West Coast mainline and has regular services to London, Crewe, Carlisle, Glasgow and Edinburgh. There is very limited public transport from Dufton, which means you’ll probably want a taxi.
- Byrness – the tiny village is connected to Newcastle by the 131 bus which runs once a day (except Sundays) and is operated by Peter Hogg, and also by a daily National Express service which runs from Wrexham to Perth via Manchester, Leeds and Newcastle.
- Kirk Yetholm – buses to Kelso run at various intervals from just outside the Border Inn. From Kelso there is a two hourly bus service to Berwick-upon-Tweed where railway services regularly run to London, Leeds, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh amongst other destinations.
Many other locations on the Pennine Way have bus services although they may not be particularly useful to the walker, nor frequent.
Guidebooks and maps are a must on the Pennine Way. Whilst there are plenty of signs, there are plenty of opportunities to lose your way on the route.
Aurum Press publish an official guidebook, last updated in the 2016. For many years the guide book was split over two volumes, it is now a single book.
Fully updated, it contains information about the trail and (more importantly) Ordnance Survey maps at the 1:25,000 scale. The maps usually show plenty of the area surrounding the route, meaning you don’t really need to take any other maps with you.
Whilst not the best ideal for navigation, Wainwright’s Pennine Way Companion offers AW’s own particular take on the walk as well as plenty of history and information. It is a fascinating read.
Wainwright’s original book has recently been updated by Chris Jesty, along with Wainwright’s other pictorial guides to ensure it’s up to date.
Updated in 2014 by Stuart Greig, Trailblazer’s Pennine Way guide is now in its fourth edition and is a fantastic resource. Containing detailed information of where to stay, eat and drink, this is a delight for anyone planning a walk. There’s also extensive information on public transport along the route, complete with bus numbers and operators. The maps are hand-drawn maps and are very detailed. Although it must be said that I’m less confident by the publisher’s assertion that you can navigate the whole thing using the book’s maps alone and would recommend that a proper map is used in conjunction with the book. The fact that there is a quote from myself in the book should in no way influence your view on this book either.
If you’d like to take maps with you, there are a couple of options. First is the A-Z Adventure Series maps. These excellent map books contain Ordnance Survey mapping at the 1:25,000 scale. They’re the same size as a folded map so will fit well in your map case, and are a lot easier to change the page for in high wind. The books also contain a full index of places and fells so finding where you want to go is easy.
Alternatively Harveys publish three strip maps which cover the whole route. These are Harvey’s own mapping, at the 1:40,000 scale. The three maps are:
Alternatively if you’d like Ordnance Survey maps, you will need the following (deep breath):
- Landranger (1:50,000): 74, 80, 86, 87, 90, 92, 98, 103, 109, 110
- Explorer (1:25,000): OL1, OL2, OL16, OL19, OL21, OL30, OL31, OL42, OL43
Finally, the Pennine Way’s fame means that there have been more than a few books written about it.
Most recent is Walking Home – poet Simon Armitage’s tale of his journey walking home down the Pennine Way (yes, he walks North to South!) Simon acts as a modern day troubadour, trying to arrange a gig every evening and passing round a hat at the end of his performance.
My favourite is Pennine Walkies, Mark Wallington’s account of walking the trail after deciding his dog, Boogie, needed the exercise.
Frequently hillarious, Wallington also has the amazing experience of walking the route with barely any rain, and doesn’t fall in any bog at all. Frankly, I suspect he made it all up.
Now out of print, but often available second hand is Barry Pilton’s One Man And His Bog must surely win the award for best name.
Quite why Barry decides to walk the Pennine Way, the reader is never quite sure, but if he hadn’t, the world would have one less funny book.
Finally don’t forget another out of print book. It’s the cartoon based Laughs Along the Pennine Way. It’s by Pete Bog so it must be good.
Whilst the route is sign posted, there are several parts of the Pennine Way that are difficult to navigate and you’ll need to know how to use a map and compass.
There are several online guides like How To Use A Compass, and you may also find training courses in your area – many YHA hostels host them for example.
Knowing how to use a map and compass together will really help you and will (hopefully!) stop you getting lost – guide books can only tell you so much in text form.
The Pennine Way is a great challenge to do and I hope the above have given you some useful information to help plan your trip.
So all that is left to do is to get your boots on and get walking! Have fun, and if you have any questions or comments, just leave a comment below.
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