Completing all the Wainwrights in the Central Fells

My arrival at Helm Crag wasn’t just me visiting any old Wainwright. It marked a more momentous event. When I reached its summit, came a big moment. For doing it meant I had visited every single one of the twenty seven fells Wainwright documented in his Pictorial Guide to the Central Fells.

I hadn’t actually planned for Helm Crag to be my last. Far from it. This was my third attempt to visit it. But it was a fine fell to end on, even if the weather wasn’t as great as it should have been. All those dramatic rocks, and the hint of a fine view, even if cloud cover meant I couldn’t see that much. I loved it to bits.

Not only did Helm Crag see the end of my journey round the Central Fells, it also became the first of the seven Pictorial Guides that I’d visited every fell from. One down, six to go. I bagged my first Wainwright by accident in 2010, and it’s taken me twelve years to complete one of the books.

It’s perhaps inevitable that the Central Fells would be the first one to be completed. It’s fells are easily accessible from Keswick and Ambleside, both places I’ve stayed at many a time over the years. I’ve viewed them from buses. Admired them whilst driving my car. Enjoyed sticking my foot on them. They’re the fells easiest to access.

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Central Fells. There’s been some corkers in there like Walla Crag, Loughrigg, and Pike O’Stickle. And, of course, Helm Crag. Fells I thoroughly enjoyed and have every intention of revisiting in the future. So whilst it’s an end, it’s also not. But never again will I visit each one afresh. Each one I’ll have trod before.

My arrival at Helm Crag wasn’t just me visiting any old Wainwright.  It marked a more momentous event.  When I reached its summit, I’d finally visited every single one of the twenty seven fells Wainwright documented in his Pictorial Guide to the Central Fells.

I hadn’t actually planned for Helm Crag to be my last.  Far from it.  This was my third attempt to visit it.  But it was a fine fell to end on, even if the weather wasn’t as great as it should have been.  All those dramatic rocks, and the hint of a fine view, even if cloud cover meant I couldn’t see that much.  I loved it to bits.

Not only did Helm Crag see the end of my journey round the Central Fells, it also became the first of the seven Pictorial Guides that I’d visited every fell from.  One down, six to go.  I bagged my first Wainwright by accident in 2010, and it’s taken me twelve years to complete one of the books.

It’s perhaps inevitable that the Central Fells would be the first one to be completed.  It’s fells are easily accessible from Keswick and Ambleside, both places I’ve stayed at many a time over the years.  I’ve viewed them from buses.  Admired them whilst driving my car.  Enjoyed sticking my foot on them.  They’re probably the fells easiest to access of all of them.  

Of course it’s not the end.  I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Central Fells. There’s been some corkers in there like Walla Crag, Loughrigg, and Pike O’Stickle.  And, of course, Helm Crag.  Fells I thoroughly enjoyed and have every intention of revisiting in the future.  But never again will I visit each one afresh.  Each one I’ll have trod before. 

The Fells

Fells in height order (highest first)

• High Raise (Langdale) – 762m
• Harrison Stickle – 736m
• Sergeant Man – 730m
• Ullscarf – 726m
• Thunacar Knott – 723m
• Pike O’Stickle – 709m
• Pavey Ark – 700m
• Loft Crag – 680m
• High Seat – 608m
• Bleaberry Fell – 590m
• Sergeant’s Crag – 571m
• Steel Fell – 553m
• Tarn Crag (Easedale) – 550m
• Blea Rigg – 541m
• Calf Crag – 537m
• Eagle Crag – 520m
• High Tove – 515m
• Armboth Fell – 479m
• Raven Crag – 461m
• Great Crag – 440m
• Gibson Knott – 420m
• Grange Fell – 410m
• Helm Crag – 405m
• Silver How – 394m
• Walla Crag – 379m
• High Rigg – 354m
• Loughrigg Fell – 335m

Order the Fells were visited in (and the walks they were done in)

• Loughrigg Fell – 22 May 2011
• The Langdale Pikes – 1 March 2013, visiting 5 fells:
  • Loft Crag
  • Pike O’Stickle
  • Harrison Stickle
  • Pavey Ark
  • Thunacar Knott
• High Rigg – 3 July 2013
• Steel Fell and Calf Crag – 4 July 2013, visiting 2 fells:
  • Steel Fell
  • Calf Crag
• High Raise and Friends – 3 April 2014, visiting 4 fells:
  • Silver How
  • Blea Rigg
  • Sergeant Man
  • High Raise
• Walla Crag and Bleaberry Fell – 10 July 2015, visiting 2 fells:
  • Walla Crag
  • Bleaberry Fell
• Grange Fell – 21 October 2019
• An Ullscarf Horseshoe – 22 October 2019, visiting 4 fells:
  • Eagle Crag
  • Sergeant’s Crag
  • Ullscarf
  • Great Crag
• Two High To Go – 19 September 2020, visiting 2 fells:
  • High Seat
  • High Tove
• Tarn Crag (Easedale) – 22 September 2020
• A Ridiculous Central Fells Adventure – 18 September 2022, visiting four fells:
  • Raven Crag
  • Armboth Fell
  • Gibson Knott
  • Helm Crag

Bagging Facts

• Number of fells: 27.
• Number of days of walking: 10.
• Fells bagged per day of walking: 2.7.
• Days between first and last fell: 4,138.
• Fells visited more than once:  Thunacar Knott (1 March 2013, 3 April 2014), Ullscarf (22 October 2019 and 18 September 2022.)
• Fells needing multiple attempts before successfully visited: Helm Crag (3 attempts), Gibson Knott (3 attempts.)

My five favourites

I could easily fill this with the Langdale Pikes, and nothing else, so will put myself a limit on one from that group.

Grange Fell

One of the lower fells and a firm favourite because of its corking views of Borrowdale and the surrounding area.  A walk of this fell also allows you to take in the famous Boulder Stone, and you can do it all by getting the open top bus from Keswick.

Helm Crag

What’s not to love about the fell also known as the Lion and the Lamb, and the Howitzer.  It took me three attempts to get up there, and the cloud came in when I did finally make it so I didn’t see much.  But it was worth the wait, and one I’ll definitely be back to.

Loughrigg Fell

The smallest of the Central Fells, it provides a perfect afternoon walk from Ambleside.  Beautiful views, stunning scenery, and a thoroughly nice walk to boot.  Perfect family walk too.

Pike O’Stickle

Definitely my favourite of the Langdale Pikes.  Looks like the result of a giant throwing clay on the ground, and requires a good old scramble to get right to the top.

Walla Crag

This was a tough one.  I almost went for High Seat, but in the end, Walla Crag pipped it to the post.  I’m a sucker for a good view, which both High Seat and Walla Crag have – both offering a splendid panorama of Derwent Water and Keswick.  But Walla Crag pips High Seat to the post with its wonderful stone pavement, and oodles of heather.

One not to bother with

There’s no truly bad fell in the Central area if you ask me.  But if I had to pick, I’d go with Ullscarf. It’s pretty dull both in climbing up it, and when you get to the top.  Even the half-hearted cairn at the top gives the impression of wondering why it’s bothered.

I’ve been there twice.  I’m quite happy not to go back a third time.